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Following Xuanzang’s Footsteps: A Journey Through Time

An ancient mural depicting Xuanzang’s journey along the Silk Road, featuring monks, an elephant, and mountainous landscapes
A mural from the Dunhuang Caves illustrating Xuanzang’s expedition along the Silk Road to retrieve Buddhist scriptures from India

Traveling back in time to the year 602 AD in Luoyang, during the late Sui Dynasty, a boy was born into a family of scholars. His name was Chen Hui. At the age of five, he lost his mother, and his second eldest brother, who had become a Buddhist monk, took on the responsibility of raising him. At the age of seven, he was ordained as a novice monk at Jingtu Temple, receiving the monastic name ‘Xuanzang.’ This marked the beginning of an epic journey that the world would never forget.

At the age of 21, he was fully ordained as a Buddhist monk and devoted himself to deepening his knowledge of Buddhism. During this time, he discovered contradictions and inconsistencies in the existing Buddhist scriptures. This realization ignited his determination to journey to the Indian subcontinent to retrieve the true scriptures.

But since Emperor Tang Taizong had imposed a ban on citizens leaving the empire, he decided to depart from Chang’an without official permission. To avoid detection by officials and soldiers, he traveled at night and rested during the day. From his first step in Chang’an to the lands of the Indian subcontinent, he passed through the following cities

Departure from Chang'an (629 CE)

Ancient fortress in Hexi Corridor with snow-capped mountains in the background, part of the Silk Road route possibly traveled by Xuanzang
Hexi Corridor

Lanzhou, Zhangye, Dunhuang

From Chang’an to Lanzhou, he received assistance from local villagers and relied on merchant caravans to cross the arid lands. After traveling through the Hexi Corridor and reaching Dunhuang, he stopped there to further his studies in Buddhism. He visited the Mogao Caves and received support from local officials and the monastic community, who helped him gather supplies and horses for the next leg of his journey.

Ruins of the ancient city of Gaochang, a vital oasis along the Silk Road in Xinjiang, China, once visited by Xuanzang
Gaochang

Yangguan, Taklamakan Desert, Gaochang

The next destination was to cross the border into Central Asia along the Silk Road, passing through the Yangguan Gate. He then entered the Taklamakan Desert, a harsh and unforgiving landscape where temperatures could soar to 40 degrees Celsius at times. After traversing the Taklamakan, he continued his journey to the Kingdom of Gaochang. There, he was warmly welcomed by King Qu Wentai of Gaochang, who generously provided supplies and assistants to support the next stage of his expedition.

A scenic view of the Pamir Mountains and a deep blue lake under a cloudy sky at Irkeshtam Pass, an ancient route to Central Asia
Pamir Mountains

Kucha, Kashgar, Pamir Mountains

From the Kingdom of Gaochang, he and his entourage set out for the Kingdom of Kucha, a land filled with over 100 temples and more than 5,000 Buddhist monks. He then continued his journey to Kashgar, where he had to prepare supplies, travel equipment, and pack animals for the challenging route ahead. The path from Kashgar was marked by deep valleys and mountain passes, requiring them to cross the Pamir Mountains. The Irkeshtam Pass, an ancient route connecting the region to the lands further west, was their chosen passage. This area was frigid, covered in snow year-round, making the journey extremely arduous.

เส้นทางพระถังซัมจั๋ง (Xuanzang's Journey)

1. Departing China (627-629 AD) - The Beginning of the Journey

Xuanzang embarked on his journey from Chang’an (modern-day Xi’an, China) in secrecy, as Emperor Taizong of Tang had forbidden monks from traveling abroad. Driven by an unwavering determination, Xuanzang sought to bring back the Buddhist scriptures and deepen his knowledge of Buddhism at its source in the Indian subcontinent.

Route Taken:

  • Chang’an (Xi’an), China – The capital of the Tang Dynasty

  • Lanzhou, China – A key trading hub on the Silk Road

  • Hexi Corridor, China – An ancient trade route connecting China to Central Asia

  • Dunhuang, China – The last frontier city of China before entering Central Asia

2. Crossing Central Asia (629-630 AD) - The Silk Road Passage

After leaving China, Xuanzang traversed Central Asia, enduring the harsh desert landscapes and territories controlled by the Turkic Khaganate. He traveled through major oasis towns that served as cultural and religious melting pots along the Silk Road.

Route Taken:

  • Hotan, China – A major oasis in the Taklamakan Desert

  • Hami, China – A key trading city along the Silk Road

  • Turpan, China – A cultural and Buddhist center in western China

  • Kucha, China – A significant Buddhist city with ancient cave temples

  • Samarkand, Uzbekistan – A major center of trade and culture in Central Asia

3. Entering the Indian Subcontinent (630-633 AD) - The Land of Buddhism

Upon reaching the Indian subcontinent, Xuanzang traveled through Gandhara, an important Buddhist region, and studied at major religious centers.

Route Taken:

  • Gandhara (Peshawar, Pakistan) – A prominent Buddhist kingdom

  • Taxila, Pakistan – A renowned Buddhist learning center

  • Kashmir, India – A region known for its deep Buddhist traditions

  • Lumbini, Nepal – The birthplace of the Buddha

4. Studying Buddhism in India (633-643 AD) - Nalanda University

Upon reaching India, Xuanzang traveled to the most renowned Buddhist learning center of the time: Nalanda University in northeastern India.

Key Locations in India:

  • Varanasi – Site of the Buddha’s first sermon
  • Rajgir – Capital of the ancient kingdom of Magadha
  • Bodh Gaya – The place where the Buddha attained enlightenment
  • Nalanda University (Bihar) – The leading center for Buddhist studies
  • Sravasti – A significant Buddhist teaching site
  • Kosambi – An important Buddhist city

Xuanzang spent 10 years studying under leading Buddhist scholars, including Śīlabhadra, and collected numerous Buddhist scriptures.

5. Returning to China (643-645 AD) - Bringing the Buddhist Scriptures Back

After a decade of study in India, Xuanzang began his return journey to China, carrying Buddhist scriptures and valuable records of his travels.

Route Taken:

  • Magadha (Patna, India) – The starting point of his return journey

  • Kabul, Afghanistan – A major trade and cultural center

  • Balkh, Afghanistan – A prominent Buddhist hub in Central Asia

  • Samarkand, Uzbekistan – A key Silk Road city revisited

  • Dunhuang, China – A resting point before entering the heart of China

  • Chang’an (Xi’an), China – His final destination, reached in 645 AD

Xuanzang’s Journey: A Test of Willpower

In the 7th century, during the Tang Dynasty, Xuanzang traveled over 10,000 miles across some of the most unforgiving landscapes on earth. He braved the vast Gobi Desert, crossed towering Himalayan peaks, and navigated through war-torn kingdoms. With little more than his faith and determination, he endured hardship after hardship to reach the heart of Buddhist teachings in India. His travel accounts remain one of the most detailed records of the ancient world, offering unparalleled insights into the cultures, people, and landscapes of his time.

If you are looking for a journey filled with history, adventure, and spiritual depth, here are the must-visit destinations along Xuanzang’s legendary route.

1. Xi’an, China – The Gateway to the West

The journey begins in Xi’an, once the bustling capital of the Tang Dynasty and a major hub of the Silk Road. It was here that Xuanzang sought approval for his journey—only to be denied. Undeterred, he set out in secret, marking the start of his extraordinary adventure.

What to Explore in Xi’an:

 

The Big Wild Goose Pagoda in Xi’an, a historic Buddhist landmark associated with Xuanzang’s journey

Big Wild Goose Pagoda – Built to house the scriptures Xuanzang brought back, this towering structure is a monument to knowledge and devotion.

 

The ancient city wall of Xi’an, a well-preserved fortification from the Tang Dynasty

Ancient City Walls – Walk along these historic fortifications that have stood for centuries, offering a glimpse into China’s imperial past.

2. Dunhuang – The Edge of the Desert

Leaving behind the safety of the empire, Xuanzang ventured into the harsh Gobi Desert. His route took him through Dunhuang, a critical stop for traders and travelers along the Silk Road. Here, he found shelter and inspiration in the famed Mogao Caves.

Must-See in Dunhuang:

 

The Mogao Caves in Dunhuang, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with ancient Buddhist murals and sculptures

Mogao Caves – A treasure trove of Buddhist art, these caves house intricate murals and sculptures that tell the story of faith and devotion.

 

Crescent Lake, an oasis in the Gobi Desert near Dunhuang, surrounded by vast sand dunes

Crescent Lake – A miraculous oasis in the middle of the desert, providing respite for weary travelers, much like it did in Xuanzang’s time.

 

The Gobi Desert at night, with a stunning view of sand dunes under the Milky Way

Sand Dunes of the Gobi – Ride a camel and experience the boundless beauty of the shifting sands, just as ancient travelers once did.

3. Nalanda, India – The Seat of Learning

Xuanzang’s goal was not merely to reach India but to learn from its greatest scholars. His studies led him to Nalanda University, an intellectual beacon that attracted minds from across Asia.

Experience Nalanda’s Legacy:

The ruins of Nalanda University, an ancient Buddhist learning center in India, once visited by Xuanzang

Nalanda University Ruins – Walk through the remains of one of the world’s oldest universities and imagine the lively exchanges of philosophy and science.

A statue of Xuanzang at the Xuanzang Memorial Hall in Nalanda, honoring his contributions to Buddhism

Xuanzang Memorial Hall – A tribute to his contribution to Buddhist studies and cross-cultural exchange.

4. Bodh Gaya – The Spiritual Heart of Buddhism

No journey following Xuanzang would be complete without visiting Bodh Gaya, where Siddhartha Gautama attained enlightenment under the Bodhi Tree. Xuanzang came here to pay homage, and it remains one of the holiest sites in Buddhism today.

Sacred Highlights in Bodh Gaya:

 

The Mahabodhi Temple in Bodh Gaya, a sacred Buddhist site where Buddha attained enlightenment

Mahabodhi Temple – A UNESCO World Heritage Site marking the place of Buddha’s enlightenment.

 

The sacred Bodhi Tree in Bodh Gaya, where Buddha attained enlightenment, surrounded by devotees in prayer

Bodhi Tree – Meditate beneath the descendant of the very tree under which Buddha found wisdom.

A Journey Beyond Time

Xuanzang’s journey was not just about reaching a destination—it was about transformation. His determination bridged the gap between cultures, fostering an exchange of ideas that still resonates today. To walk in his footsteps is to step back in time, immersing yourself in a world of devotion, discovery, and adventure.

For those seeking more than just a vacation, this is an opportunity to connect with history in the most profound way. Whether you follow his route in search of knowledge, spirituality, or adventure, one thing is certain—you will never see the world the same way again.

Are you ready to embark on a journey of a lifetime? Xuanzang’s path awaits.

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